"Then he comes, the second star! Under two conditions, the owner family still lets Tim Extra manage and switch as he likes and above all can and above all, and the quality of the wine glasses is raised at star level, otherwise, I take it forward, the most culinaryly convincing evening in 2018 so far, and certainly also one of the culinary impressions in my previous life. Saturday 13th October 2018, was completely fat red painted in my calendar. An appointment took place, which I was very pleased with. Goodbye to Mrs and Mr Borgfelder! We had, because I always wanted to go, see my June 2016 report, to meet us for an evening at Apicius, the gourmet restaurant of the hunting house Eiden. I took over the reservation there, Borgi booked us in the Hotel 53 Grad Kolb in the Bad Vorahner district Dreibergen. The Hotel Jagdhaús Eiden only rents for at least 2 nights. But in the Kolb it is also excellent. Mission accomplished! In the late afternoon we arrived at the sea and at some point the Borgis were there, and it went by taxi to the hunting house Eiden. After a short trip we stood in front of the large building ensemble with a pick-packed parking lot, as always the hotel was well-loaded. Around a few corners and through a few doors it went into the renovated rooms of Apicius. Pleasant hospitality, reserved ambience The ceiling over the tables was quite low suspended But still a sense of security came up. We were kindly welcomed, the dressing room was taken away, and after it was clear who was the booking Mr Carsten1972 and who was the Lord of the accompanying couple, we were led to our table. Water was ordered, and we found in all the reunion talks time also to order an aperitif, Cremant for my wife, Mrs Borgi was alcohol-free, for the two gentlemen a white port, unfortunately not served with a toe, but with a lemon slice, he immediately pulled together, our review master, and casssed first magnificent words of his better half, not to start critical! The level of excitement was driven back and the young trainees came out with exhorting words that I had not seen it as such a big accident! The cards were handed, and now it went to the thing! There are two menus, one with animal protein, one for the vegetarian. Vegans and other incompatibility plagues have to report in advance, then the kitchen adapts. We did not have it, but the agony of choice was also so great! The one or the other, I was really insecure, because the vegetarian menu was very tempting, just like that with fish and meat. My wife was sure, because of all the marine animals, it would be the carnivore menu, and the Borgi chose it. His wife knew to choose the Herbivore menu, and what did Omnivor Carsten do? He did this very unusual for him and chose the greenery! Where, if not in such an ambitious kitchen, would there be a convincing vegetarian menu? Come on, before I change my mind! All 8 plants! The time flew in the rush, so much was there to tell, because suddenly, still at the aperitifs, a first kitchen greeting, called Aperos. Announcing the corridors a great innovation, there was a kind of business card of every gang that in detail rallied all the ingredients. A great help also now in creating criticism, because otherwise it would be possible to recapitulate everything in the diversity of the offered impossible. In the first kitchen, so smoked salmon, potato, caviar Optisch very appealing, but not yet a tasteful climax, much better the liquid mushroom Praline that was an aromatic palate filler! Norddeutsch der Krabbencocktail Apicius tastefully to settle at the salmon, even not really projecting the Pulled Pork Burger from the Bentheimer Sau, which is very popular at the time. Distinguishing the last component called Bocadillo, Iberian Pata Negra ham and tomato, on a carefully softened white bread. This first kitchen greeting was okay over all 5 components, but it just doesn't justify the euphoria described above, but cheerful, maybe that's the intention of Mr Extra, otherwise he can't increase! After this walk bread, butter and cream. Homemade foccacia with rocket and potato, very tasty and it fell hard not to eat too much of it. For me there was only a question of the Breton broacher butter, which is refined by the French producer with olive oil and lemon, my tablemates praised the cream. That was more tasteful the star kitchen hoped for. After this setting, the second kitchen floor, the actual Amuse Gueule, consisting of 4 components. Poached oysters with salt herbs and estragon cream A wild mix of the sea, again oysters, sepia, crab tartar, crabs, and much more Optical a highlight, served on a broth granite, sepiachips, stuck on the crabs with crustacean cream and salt herbs. Unfortunately, a photo of the very good crust animal soup is missing, which was visually simple but outstanding with smell and taste. That was, in the culinary sense, a neat interlude to a much higher level, Mr Extra! Extremely fine, it went in the direction I had hoped for. And because you seem to be afraid in Apicius that guests could not be fed or suffer from acute back work shortages, there is always the possibility to use the homemade bread selection over the whole menu. It means letting you be careful if you haven't even arrived at the first gear. That was just a prelude now, let's see what Mr Extra intended to offer in the actual menu! It started with tomato from its own garden Colorful tomatoes from its own garden, in different textures, raw-marined, dried, liquid. Whoever loves tomatoes like me, is as painful as before when the last tomatoes are picked, now it means wait until next year again, I don't buy winter tomatoes. In addition, a lemon peel cream, basil cream and buffalo mozzarella was the very finest version of the classic Italian court! Continued with Kohlrabi That was not a pasta! The ravioli was made of cabbage rabi, thin-hoe, filled with potato nut butter cream, poured with a warm juice of cabbage rabi with chives, garnished with flowers and herbs, Borgi's version of the court differed only insignificantly from that of his wife and me served as a second walk. Increase over every gear so far! Vegetables was the main reason to choose the vegetarian menu Optisch was this course the highlight of the evening! Flavoured onion filled with a ragout of pastinake, carrot, celery. Thereupon a kind of onsene, sous vide cooked, during consumption, the egg yolk of all mixed with the cream in the onion. Add a roasted onion cream and a foam of onion and potato, for the crunch a few puffed potatoes! Very, very, very good the whole thing! After this aroma bang a sorbet to descend the sense of taste. Amalfi lemons, from which it was made and this noble citrus fruit deserves to be poured on with a champagne. Here it was a champagne foam, I just found champagne completely okay! The sorbet had switched the flavor nerves free again and so could follow butternut pumpkin3, which were three versions of pumpkin. Great the risotto with pumpkin brunoise and pumpkin seeds, baked out. Second variant was sworn pumpkin with pumpkin juice and pumpkin hollandaise. So that it wasn't a pumpkin overkill, Chicorée was still there, murdered and marinated raw. That was at a level with gang 3! Now again a photo, is absolutely necessary, because the kitchen surpassed again because it was so nice to see, another view of the forest walk called it. Better said, autumn forest walks, mushrooms and apples were the theme of the plate. There were a chocolate cream with juniper (great!, a fly mushroom with apple filling in the hood and mushroom cream in style, pine kernel ice cream, cranberry gel, juniper truffle, chocolate sprout and sour klee. Everyone at the table was adored! That was only Gang 6, how could this increase? Gemach, cheerful, first time a pre-dessert Baba au Rhum called it, unknown to me, but Borgi was delighted. Yeast biscuits in rum soaked, crowned with glazed apricot, vanilla foam and Ron Zacapa Rum. Delicious, but simpler in all aspects than the corridors before. Perhaps a small braking through the kitchen was also very necessary before the following. So to the sweet part of the menu, Mrs Borgfelder bloomed up! Quark and Berry Fruits Again an optical knob, the raspberry popped my wife, no idea how the tasted, but that was such a jelly thing! Molecular kitchen, she was very touched. A quark mousse was there, with white chocolate, quark foam, cassissorbet, rivers blueberry praline, iced raspberry, blueberry caviar, vanilla cream, yoghurl, fresh berries, forest strawberry berries, pavlova and dayds............puh, so much delicious stuff on a plate was already almost taste nerve. At the end, however, we were not yet, because now the cheese car rolled up There was apricot mustard, sour jelly (actually I drink the rather strawberry jam with cayenne, olive chutney, house-baked baguette and fruit bread for the as always tempting cheese selection from the affineur Waltmann from Erlang. After fighting through his selection of cheese, you thought about yourself, okay that was it, nothing goes anymore! Pustekuchen, another car rolled to Petit Fours were on and inside! Whenever you think it's not going anymore, there's still a small gap in the stomach that fits it, but it's over! After exactly 5.5 hours of eating the absolute top class! We also drank A Riesling, VDP big vines from Rheinhessen, a Pouilly Fume from France and a Premium Chardonnay from South Tyrol, a half bottle of red, as well as from France, so everyone could become happy to the menu. The digestif selection was no longer in the best will! Great food! Tim Extra visited us at the table at the end of the evening and was able to tell our satisfaction to his kitchen team. Just as enjoyable as the kitchen under Tim Extra, the service operated under the direction of Mr. Marco Scheper! Although the young trainees had start-up difficulties at the beginning, the service was very good on the menu and we felt very comfortable. Also some critical hooking of our senior at the table was welcomed. Under the bill of the sentence: Thank you, this has been a lot of fun! Not only to you, dear service, we did this too. Conclusion of an extremely beautiful evening with the Borgis in Bad Vorahn in the Apicius in the hunting house Eiden! 1 Michelin star, 17 out of 20 points in the Gault Millau call the two most important gourmet guides, they are right and with a bit of luck and constanz this will still improve, as I am sure! But only with new wine glasses if you really want to taste something!"
