"What a great site outside of Rifugio Fuciade; the white cliffs of the towering Dolomite Mountains, made of chalk and other minerals that weather so pale over time. What a climate: always refreshing, and after a walk at 1970 metres it creates an appetite for...both the chef’s efforts and sparkling chardonnays from Trento to the south. We are tasked with drinking Trento DOCs at altitude, and giving consideration to their differential taste when drunk in parallel at 200 m near Trento city. First plate, the starter: tartare of trout/ char, dressed along with goat cheese, mint and strawberry medley decor; topped with sweet potato crisp; diced fresh water lake fish marinated in great olive oil, saffron infused, juicy and subtle-flavoured. Crispy chardonnay bubbles easily release chopped fish notes you see. Try a Trento DOC with your next tartare or sushi. The prima, a pasta called ciajoncie looking like dumplings, a Fassa Valley specialty better known as mezzelune or ravioli when local dialect is not used. Stuffed with smoked ricotta, roasted tomatoes around the plate with a strip of caramelised balsamic. Substantial. Now a second pasta; risotto, rice stained with squid ink, topped with hearty slices of speck, local bacon, chives, topped with a delirious taste sensation of a crumbed, deep fried whole egg just so plump and running with flavour. The bubbles match? Blanc de noirs, needed some pinot noir weight. Yes. Secondo; roe deer, juicy pink, dry aged and glowing with rustic taste charm; noisettes, savoury apple in its skin, crumbed, deer jus, so rich, butter finished; pimento puree, peppery, elderberry acidity; just very good, hearty dish. The pairing; older Trento DOC, base wines barrel aged, lots of bottle aged honey, sweetens up the game jus. Dessert; artful, called Caprese 2.0; actually the main ingredients of caprese salad; tomato, basil and mozzarella as ice creams in medley; savoury- sweet; cheese crumble to finish, olive oil lurking. Here since 1982 owners Sergio and Manuela, and head chef Martin, have a charming time providing these plates with their own local Ladin spin (also a rare local language). Bravo guys. The air outside was crisp, too cold for outside dining, and there was a 30% chance of snow overnight, but it didn’t, and the accommodation snug but super at -5 oC outside; pleasant. I think I preferred Trento fizzes at ground zero; at 2000 metres glasses go flat a little faster. So drink them quickly. Our thanks to Rifugio Fuciade for a fun experience, and night."
