"cook very confidently. we had a nice but no fireworks meal here yesterday evening. it is in the grosvenor, a beautiful hotel on a beautiful road in a beautiful city, and I would warmly recommend a weekend break for anyone who does not live near. it is all dark wood trim and gentle lighting, exemplary, but good humble and warm service, and a limitless mix of diners from the brightly padded cheshire ladies d'un certain age with their golf hubbies, and nervous young couples who work up to a suggestion. the service starts in the bar, with a wonderful cocktail list (including some great non-alcoholic, I had minze and ingwer and gurke and a fevertree Mediterranean tonikum, zingy . amuses bouches included a scotch quail 's ei with pork cratry, a kind truffly gougere, and a wonderful smoked salmon lollipope with an art truffy. in the restaurant we then had another amuse of a spoon liver that had a crisp sweet crust, a bit like a cream brussels, with a pistachio wafer and a cherry (church were themes of the night, it must have been a market glut. the starter on the tasting menu was a disc crispy boar bell with a black pudding wafer, brawn jelly and some smoked torte. the evening meal then continued with a tranche of perfectly boiled Brixham-Peice, a longoustine and some devastated and pure salate. my favourite dish was an incredibly soft piece of poussin breast with deep fried squid tenacles, some cannelloni that had (I think the beinfleisch in and some more squid, along with its ink, saffron and a pfeffer crush. on which note, radley 's cooking is wonderfully free from the frills and pellets this was the only glamour of the night. there were no swabs, no foams, no technology for it. Apart from the ubiquitous circuses and a sometimes unsatisfactory use of fairly bland truffles, it was all very mature and reserved. the main was poached rindfleisch filet, more canneloni, this time with ochsentail, sellerie and some rich and spicy lenses. together with an unadvertized disc of brand and some tripe (I would have thought that diner should have been told about the trip, as it could not be deceived to any 's lust, and could have been deceived for one of the 'texturs of sellerie'. desserts then began an elegant barrel aged disc by feta with baclava and some pure Agen Fountain; a 'daiquiri' by banane, limette, around and some crispy peanut variable, and then finally parfait with poached rhubarb, ingwer and sugar-baked beetroot (the beet worked very well here. this was the only time service a little we were one of five tables in our part of the restaurant with the tasting menu and although we started 'd at different times, we have closed together so that they all last desserts at the same time. a little left out. petits four were small bakery cases with different custards including a beautiful peanut and caramel. and crunch. that was baked, in the words of mr. hollywood, a great baker. wonderfully thin and crisp. then finally a cigar case was bought with a selection of four I had white chocolate with pistachio and milk chocolate with lapsang souchong (usually barely detectable, but a fine accompaniment to a good espresso still . all in all, a very civilized evening, and we would repeat. it is a gently illuminated meal, instead of the dams of fireworks. but perfect for it. I didn't drink, but the sommelier was charming and knowledgeable, and the flight of the wee to accompany the tasting seemed good to go. an interesting list."
