"The counter was long taboo. Corona had taken a lot of months to their favorite place. So also in the “Pottkind”, which we had visited last year and a half years ago and where we had also enjoyed the direct view of the kitchen and direct communication with the chefs from the outset. And a half years – whether with or without lockdown – are too long. In the meantime, we have seen images and reports from current menus that documented an exciting development. We would have taken a place on one of the tables alone. But it is now how it is and so it took until October of last year, when an opportunity for the longest visit was found. With cleverly attached and not disturbing Plexiglas discs you were allowed to release the counters and we look forward to the Carte Blanche menu of Enrico Sablotny, which is available in four, five or six courses (60€, 75€, 90€). The start is made by some crackers, including a Filo chip filled with rabbit rills, with a buckthorn and fennel crackers, which are wonderfully dipping for the spicy Sauce Rouille. Apéros How multi-layered the following passage is, can hardly be seen at the sight of the very puristic presentation. Thematically, this is about chicken. For this, the liver is processed as a cream, the filled keule as a galantine, egg as a foam, and a gel is drawn from the back of the bones that covers the dish with sesame. Inside there is a thin-heavy black-root salad. Through the liver, a earthy basic tone is drawn through the gang, which is generally incredibly splendoury, juicy and just tasty. It follows good bread, butter and steiric ham. This is not staged in the “Pottkind” as an explicitly independent passage, but at this point gets its appropriate appearance. Butter, bread, ham With mullet it continues and again hides under the sepia coloured potato chip more than you expected. Kerbel root, pine nuts, inlaid beer loafs and parsley spinach ensure the cosy substructure, but the most marqueous is undoubtedly the intense borillas. It goes straight to 12. Just great and for me one of the dishes that makes it right into my personal year Best Of list! The next course is Jens-Peter, Koch in the “Pottkind” team with Frankfurter origin. He had the idea to use cooking cheese as a creamy base for la rat-pel potatoes and swollen oxtail. There is also an onion jam under the cheese foam. It's a decency, but original and understated solution. Jens-Peters Kochkäse, La Ratte, Ochsenschwanz The main plate with deer spine, Chicoree (actually with a pleasantly light bitter note , champignons in textures on Brioche, pistazie and a beautiful orange jus would be worth all honour alone. The combination is varied, the craft immaculate and the presentation convincing. But the real star in this dish is the separately served late zle. They are fried with pawlings and butterballs and would also be able to pass through as an independent court. Maybe we're so used to precious ingredients that just seemingly simple supplements are so much fun. Maybe it's just because they're just ultra-lecker. Deer spine, Chicoree, Champignons Spätzle At dessert, my memories disappear a little. So whether it was a nougat or a hazelnut, I can't say exactly, but by yogurt it had a pleasantly sour touch. Bronze fennel and spaghettic pumpkin also play a role, as well as rose hips, which were processed in the Baiser and the sauce. But I also don't want to guarantee that. That's the problem with Carte Blanche menus that you have to take care of what you're saying. But ultimately, it's only important whether it was good. And that was, even very good and pleasing, not too sweet. Nougateis, Karamell, Fenchel As always, with the Petits Fours one again strikes a bow at the beginning of the menu. The presentation is almost identical, but now there is everything in the sweet version. Here as biscuits with cheesecake cream and apricot as well as with fennel cracker and blueberry-firing dip. Petits Fours Compared to our very convincing menu at the time, this was once again a clear jump to the front, not to say a stubborn performance. The style seems even more independent and pointed. Enrico Sablotny combines creative and thoughtful, but without overloading his plates. The complexity often hides itself under what is not recognizable at first glance. He himself says that a dish like the appetizer around the chicken in this form would not have been brewed before. However, if this marks the direction in which you want to go, I can only explicitly encourage you to continue this path. Here you can see a handwriting, paired with original ideas and impeccable craftsmanship. That definitely has star quality. At any rate, we were thrilled and can hardly expect the next menu at the counter. If Corona is allowed again. Report as always on my blog: [here link]"
